~ world\'s greenest water pump ~

by:Ultimate     2020-11-30
Please take a look and enjoy the Instructure and don\'t forget to rate it. Parts list.
You may want to print this image for later reference as an assembly guide.
All available plans for Ram pump valves are based on converting traditional bottom valves to reverse operations.
The problem with this solution is that you end up with a vulnerable, wobbly, unreliable valve.
It works, but it wears out too fast and is blocked too much.
My design starts from scratch and makes it powerful to handle it.
My wife said I was as strong as a cow and as smart as a tree, so I built everything this way.
I also like to use anything around the farm, so that\'s exactly what I did.
You can make it more beautiful and simple, but recycling is a priority for these parts, especially if you are a broker other than the Ten Commandments. . .
The project really paid off for us and it worked really well.
You need a picture of all the valve parts to see if it is easier to make than the sound below. . . so let\'s GO. . . I have a 2 to 1.
5 \"copper reducer of short film 1.
5 \"connect the pipe to make the valve body.
I also have a 6 \"brass tailstock sink connector that I reverse and weld inside the reducer as it has a smooth lip that makes a perfect valve seal that doesn\'t work at all.
If you have a new reducer and grind it flat with sandpaper, you may not need the tailstock step, but you do need a smooth edge to touch the valve seal, otherwise you won\'t be able to get it to work.
Drill at least 2 now (or 4 is better)
Through the 3/4 \"hole on the pipe directly above the reducer, smooth edges and presto, your exhaust port is complete. Next problem. . .
How to replace the O-ring seal used in the modified foot valve.
It usually wears or slides and stops your pump.
So, let\'s not make fun of it.
Take a puck and make it 1 with a hole saw.
85 \"diameter, so it fits inside the 2\" reducer and has a lot of clearance on the outside.
Drill a 1/2-inch hole accurately in the center and put a bolt and nut on it so you can put it on the drill bit.
Then rotate it at the edge with a file so you can get a smooth bevel edge about 1/4 \"long.
This will press on the smooth tailstock lip to form a seal of your valve to make it as smooth as possible and even work better.
Buy some plastic washers now and they can slide easily into the tailstock.
There is a scrap plastic around me, so I put it on the lathe for installation.
It can be used as a center guide for the valve to keep the valve closed and open in straight lines. (
This is one of the reasons why other conversion valves often fail. )
The 1/16 gap says the fit needs to be loose but not too hasty.
Make a cap now.
I turned a piece of scrap aluminum so it could fit into the tailstock and left about 1/2 of the highlight on the top like the cabinet knob.
The half-inch center hole is threaded to fit the rod, but you can use a gap hole and several fixing nuts on the top and bottom.
You need to be able to adjust the position of this cover up or down on the screw bar, as this is the regulator that controls the cycle frequency and efficiency of the pump.
A huge wing nut can also work, just something that causes the valve rod assembly to fall off the bottom due to gravity when it loops up and down.
Assemble your valve now.
Put about 6 0z.
The weight of the bottom of the screw bar. (
I drilled a 1/2 hole in a scrap steel ,(
You can use heavy washer)
, Just smaller than the diameter of the ice hockey, ice hockey and ice hockey flat.
Place the puck on the rod, then place the gasket on the top about 1/2 smaller than the puck slope, and then lock it in a hard place with a fixing nut. (
This valve cycle 2.
5 times per second and get a lot of power (
Remember the previous water hammer discussion, well, the water hammer part is real! )
So lock it strongly.
This is another reason for the failure of the foot valve conversion, because there is no way to prevent the valve assembly from shaking on the valve body, and it wears the rod or guide rail too quickly, often popping the foot valve to remove the O-ring from the groove.
This is not possible with my valve. )
Now place another fixing nut on the rod at about 2 \"above the ice hockey assembly.
The valve loops up and down about 1/2 \", so when the vent is fully assembled and in a drop position, you want your plastic center rail to be above the vent.
Now place a fixing nut on the top of the plastic center rail and tighten it. Almost there.
Slide the finished stem assembly into the reducer to make the screw rod reach out to the top.
Now rotate on your cap regulator until it slides into the top of the tailstock and allows the valve assembly to move up and down about 1/2 \".
Place a wing nut at the top of the lid and fix it in place.
In order for the pump to operate best, you have to loosen or tighten this cover a few laps at a time.
The hard part is over.
Now take out the fire extinguisher and make a pressure tank.
You can do this by unscrewing the fire extinguisher handle, filling the tank with a recycled, deflated 20 \"bike tube and then inflating it to about 5 psi. , that\'s it.
Next, assemble the pump as you can see in the parts list picture, then tie it to something strong, or it will walk around the woods. (
Remember the previous water hammer discussion, well, the water hammer part is real! )
So I locked it strongly and tied it to the board and 10 \"concrete blocks with a 4x3 fence.
I tied the pump to it with a copper duct belt and stainless steel screws.
The water supply pipe is connected to the pump with a rubber pipe connector.
Here\'s how to operate it: to run it, you need a water supply pipeline of about 5\' and drop below the surface of a pond or stream every 1.
I have 10 \'fall and 50\' feed tubes for 3 gallons/min. (
It would be better to speak longer. 5:1)
Push manually now (cycle)
About 30 or 40 times up and down the valve lever to fill the pressure tank.
These pumps require a return pressure in the tank to run automatically.
When the pump starts the cycle itself, you will want to screw the regulator cover up or down so that the cycle frequency is about 60-
150 cycles per minute.
Try the cycle frequency and find something that will provide you with the most water.
There are a lot of trouble shooting guides online that can help you fine tune.
If the circulation speed of the stem is too fast or too slow and you do not have enough adjustment function, you may need to add or remove some weight at the bottom of the stem.
A little denial and error, you will find the best time to make it run smoothly.
I find that it does not create any pressure if the cycle is too fast and the delivery flow is low or stopped.
If the circulation speed is too slow, the delivery flow will be weaker, and you use more water than necessary, you can drain the water supply pipe if your water supply is limited.
The mine seems to deliver the most water at a cycle speed of 150/min.
Enjoy your gravity pump, which is the closest thing you can see to a perpetual motion. . .
Hope you can see the effect of this movie.
This is the best amateur project I have built with abandoned parts and recycled garbage.
We use it every day throughout the summer and it benefits everyone who comes to see us while saving real money!
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