Made from complete scrap, debris, and debris, otherwise the land may eventually be filled.
I hope to eventually increase the lights and sounds, but the strong desire to have the big kids play the real pinnies game comes first!
I think I have to wait.
This is the first time I have submitted instructures, so I hope I can explain it well enough!
Please do not hesitate to have any questions.
Thank you, kris82-
Homemade Indiana Jones pinball machine for a great guide, I eagerly wait for you to score without an electronic device; )
Tools Needed: Mitre Saw or mitre box and handsaw/chainsaw.
Electric drill bit and drill bit head drill bit or Philips screw drive Sander or sanding block/paper heavy duty stapler and stapler
Blue, green, yellow, red, brown and transparent)
Marbles/ball bearings, etc (pinballs)
Materials for this step :(A)1 -
400mm long x 600mm wide x 20mm thick (back board)(B)1 -
900mm long x 600mm wide x 20mm thick (base)(C)2 -
Pine boards 65mm x 20mm x 940mm long (sides)(D)1 -
Pine board 65mm x 20mm x 600mm long (front)(E)1 -
Thin sheets of strong and flexible wood, cardboard, etc. , about 800mm long.
60mm wood screw glue DingTalk cut both sides first (B)
Use a square and hand saw, or preferably a drop saw with a length of 940mm.
We allow the thickness of each of the two front panels to be 20mm (D)
And back panel (A)
Cutting the front plate (D)
Don\'t stick a piece of wood on the front, because we need to cut a piece from the base later.
Screw it in place now so it can be removed later.
Base of laminated cardboard (B)
Screw/glue your side on a flat bench (C)
To the side edge of the cardboard base (B)
Remember to leave 20mm for each end of the front board (D)
And back panel (A)to screw to.
I used 5 screws to sink my head and separated each side evenly with fine wood glue.
Now, put your thin wood, cardboard, etc (E)
To the height between the cardboard base (B)
And the top on both sides of you (C)
When you use the piston, allow enough length to get an even curve for the ball to follow.
I fixed my curved wood inside with two very small screws at both ends and liquid nails coated with wood/cardboard (E)
Meet both parties (C)
Now it\'s time to decide what your theme might be other than the dinosaur pinball.
It could be anything, just my big kids love dinner :)
I say the reason to choose your theme now is that you may want to do something different with your back panel.
Your imagination is the limit.
I simply took 4 round plates and tracked them around to get the effect you saw and then cut it out with a jigsaw puzzle.
A few things to keep in mind are that start the cut shape you want from the height of the side so you have something to screw to the back panel and the side. (
Refer to pic 1 above)
When fixing your side and back plate together, tilt the back plate a little bit at an angle because it looks better when we put on our legs later.
Remember that when the ball rolls towards us, the back of the entire pinball machine must be higher. (
Refer to pic 2 above)
At this point, you may want to use the kris82 method of making a fin-like limb.
My job is good and strong enough, but it seems to be more costly and tedious to work.
I will still add instructions for those who want to give it before.
Material for this step: 2-Flippers (template above).
Made of small wooden blocks of about 30mm depth and 100mm length (
I used pine trees in Oregon. 2 -Bolts 70-
80mm long x 8mm radius with 2 wash heads and 3 nuts per fin limb (
Use transport bolts if possible.
They will lock in the wood and provide a better look)2 -
Small flat bracket (
I used a small angle with two holes on both sides and flattened it. See pic 4, 5)2 -
Small bolts and two nuts
220mm old brooms (
Not kidding. 2 -
180mm 32mm electric lines 4-
32 MM Electrical pipe bracket 2-Large washers2-
The large bottle encapsulates the small screws so that the fin-like limb is similar to the template printed on me.
You need to find a good piece of wood with no defects such as knots or cracks.
Cut the template into the final shape using puzzles and sand.
As in the template, drill two 8mm holes through a fin-like limb.
Now, on the substrate, measure 100mm up from the bottom of the substrate at each corner.
Get a straight edge and rule the line on the substrate.
That\'s where we\'re going to drill holes for our flippers.
Now mark the center of this line (
The measurement from the inside of the side plate should be 300mm to the center)
Place your fin-like limb on the base line close to the center and place the ball you are going to use between the fin-like limb.
Leave a gap of about 5mm between the sides of the ball and the fin-like limb, and then track your fin-like limb and hole on the substrate. (Ref pic 1)
Remove the foot flip and carefully drill 9mm holes from the substrate.
As you can see on it, I have drilled a hole in my heart and need a hole.
If you do well, there\'s no need.
Now, pick up your bolts and carefully knock them into the holes of the fins.
Now add a nut and tighten it with a wrench on the head of the bolt (
If transport bolts are not used)
And one on the nuts.
As tight as possible, don\'t get your foot fins. (Ref pic 2, 3)
Tap the bolt gently through the hole on the base plate, add a gasket from below, then add another nut and tighten it so that the flipper has a little tension, but the turn is easy to exit.
Add a small flat bracket and another nut.
Tighten the last two nuts to each other, and there is a bracket between the two nuts.
On the hole on the other side of the bracket, you can add small bolts and nuts as described above.
This is for the elastic band that will stretch the fin-like limb. (Ref pic 4)
Cut two 32mm long wire pipes into 180mm long and attach them to both sides with a 32mm stand and small screws.
Cut out two long brooms in 220mm long places.
This should be perfect for the 32mm pipe, but loose enough to move freely.
You need to screw a large washing machine to the inside end of the broom so that the stick doesn\'t fly out when the elastic band is retracted.
Just screw the cap to the outside of the broom stick, and all you have to do here is fix the elastic band with the exception of a few screws. (Ref pic 4, 5)
Material for this step: 1-
200mm PCs broom stick1-
32mm x 20mm wire 4-
Faucet/faucet spring with cone end cut (
It is best to find a spring suitable for a broom stick, about 200mm in length)1 -
Small faucet/faucet spring piece about 20mm long. 1 -Large washer1 -End cap (Bottle cap etc)1 -
Wood 45mm x 400mm long 1-
A piece of wood 15mm x 200mm long, another 200mm long broom stick and Liquid Nail and twist the large washer at one of the ends.
When the piston and the spring pull back, the piston does not come out of the hole in the front plate, nor does it give the spring something to push.
Now, slide the spring/s plastic gasket onto the wooden bar as described above.
Drill or puzzle a 32mm hole on the front board to make sure the piston is flush with the base plate and set at about 20mm from the sideboard. (See pic 1)
Once you cut 32mm of the tube, add a layer of liquid nail to the hole in the front plate and insert 32mm of the tube into the hole in the front plate.
Put the blank end of the piston into the front plate hole with the 32mm tube we just glued in, and then pull back.
Now slide on the small spring.
This will prevent the end cap from hitting the front panel when we use the piston.
Screw your tail cap with liquid nails.
Cut a 45 degree piece of wood at one end, measure and cut a square about 400mm long at the other end.
This is our guide to ball shooting, which prevents the piston from moving too much to the left and right.
The liquid pegs it in the appropriate position and screws it in from the lower side of the substrate.
I added another small piece of wood above the piston to prevent it from moving up and down too much.
We will put the top paper on mache so there is no need to fill in the top.
Material for this step: chicken paper powder and water paste
Wood leftover material (
Rear for back panel)
Interesting things are starting now.
Do you remember the horse paper?
Well, neither do I.
Anyway, here\'s a link on how to make it.
First of all, you need to find some old chicken lines that can be molded into mountains, ramps, etc.
Once you are satisfied with the shape of your ramp and mountain, mark where the entrance and exit points are, and cut the entrance holes to the rear panel and pass through the mountain.
Make sure your ramp entrance is not too high on the back panel, a little higher than your mountain exit, otherwise the ball will get stuck. The inlet (Ramp)
The hole in my body is about 260mm on the rebound, which is hard to pick up the ball but not impossible. The outlet (Mountain)
About 50mm low.
I didn\'t get a picture of the mountain, but it was all, an old water pipe on a car running from the mountain, propped up from the bottom plate with chicken lines. Simple.
Once you have nailed your chicken silk to all surfaces in as many places as possible, make sure it is firmly in place.
Now you can start the messy task of paper paste.
I made 3 coats to get each one close to drying in the middle.
It is good that many people will be happy about it and will not go further.
I decided to try something different and apply about 4 layers of gypsum board on each coat with gypsum board tape.
In the last photo, you can see that I made a crack on the side of the mountain.
This is achieved by adding a fairly thick coat on a 30 degree day and blasting it with a hairdryer. (see last pic)
The results are cool.
The back of the back panel is just a piece of wood running from the ramp to the mountain, blocked from both ends. (ref 2nd pic)
I also have an item that covers my back completely so that if the ball is hit hard, it won\'t fly out.
Material for this step: 2-75mm screws (Rear)2 -50mm screws (front)4 -
Ban on small rubber (sides)2 -
Medium rubber O-ring or thick rubber strap s6-
It is possible to use a suitable flying mesh rubber cutter or plastic wall plug-in. 2 -
Small bracket bent into T shapescrew caps (
Stick to the head of each screw)1 -
A door made of an old laundry basket (
Small square metal wire can be used)
OK, we need to add some goals to make the game more fun.
The first one is a multi-ball cage, which is simply four screws with two separate flying silk rubber on each screw.
There is a small bracket between the two larger screws at the back, fixing the plastic gate of the base plate upwards.
I made the bracket with two small yellow copper horns.
It can be made of light metals such as tin.
Add your little rubber band on each side as the side wall.
The gate is made of an old laundry nail basket, with the top and middle spires of the basket cut longer.
Therefore, the gate can only be opened when the ball hits the twisted rubber O-ring, and the rubber O-ring will bias multiple balls out of the gate and will not bring any balls back.
I also have to add a weight to the bottom of the gate so that once the ball is hit in the cage it closes.
Basic but effective.
The middle pin is in the brackets we made before.
Apply glue screw cap on the head of each screw.
Material for this step: 1-75mm screws (Rear)2 -50mm screws (front)1 -
Loose Block 40mm x 100mm L (for deflector)1 -
Single line ramp.
About 240mm long (
I made it with a brass tea towel rack)1 -
The direct length is about 300mm (
I made it with a brass tea towel rack)1 -
100mm pieces of wood or cardboard (
For bottom of guide plate)2 -
Small bracket bent into L shape (
Used to keep the bottom of the deflator)2 -
Small U-shaped bracket (For gate hinges)1 -
A fencing line (
V-shaped curved into a circle)5 -
Can use fly net rubber cutting piece suitable or plastic wall plug-in 2-
Small rubber band (sides)1 -
Medium L bracket (
Used to place a deflator)4 -Tiny screws (
On both sides of the top of the ramp-
Prevent the ball from falling on the edge of the baffle and gate hinge)2 -
Either end of 45mm screw deflector1-
A door made of an old laundry basket (
Small square metal wire can be used)1 -
Short wires (
Close the door)
Cut your pine block at a 45 degree angle at each end.
Then shape it like the first photo above.
This will require you to see small cracks along the length of the deflator and cut out the shape.
Finish with sandpaper.
Measure and mark the center of the guide plate and drill two small holes at the radius of the fence line that is evenly spaced from the center mark.
Make sure you drill at roughly the same angle as our curved V fence line.
Don\'t go, cut the wood all the way.
Insert wires and dab with a little bit of wood glue.
Sit on the guide plate block at the bottom of the thin wood/cardboard and track the external shape.
Do not cut the inside of the bottom.
Easy mistakes :)
Liquid Nails, screw the bottom to the guide plate or nail to the guide plate.
Now put the deflator on the base plate and mark where the rear screws and front screws need to be placed to support our deflator.
Plus L bracket (pic 1, 5)
Add the flying wire rubber to the small L bracket on the rear screw and the front screw, and then add the flying wire rubber to all screws.
Carefully twist them straight and nice.
Add two 45mm and two small screws to the top of the guide plate.
Add rubber bands around the screws to form a V-shaped wall.
Sitting on the guide plate on the front and back L bracketsNow, you can sit both ramps in the proper position and shape the left ramp into a curve.
As shown in the last photo above, the left ramp line up straight down the aisle.
The straight double ramp needs to be set in place and the bottom needs to be marked and drilled into the bottom so that the ball does not have a lip hit.
Make sure you drill at the right angle, not straight in.
Now sit on your door with small U brackets and screw them in.
The right hand side screw is wrapped around a small wire so it can grab the door.
When the ball hits the gate, it should open the door and fall to the arena.
Materials required for this step: 2-
Corner part of round wood 1-
1-45mm screw flying rubber
As you can see, this is very basic.
If the front plate has not been removed, remove it first.
Depending on the size of the ball you use, dig a hole about 100mm long and 40mm deep on the substrate.
You need to add round wood at each base corner of the substrate so that the ball goes all the way back to the middle of the table and then falls into the cut out hole.
This box is made from the remaining scrap wood and can be made to fit the size of your table.
I\'m not going to delve into this as I\'m going to turn it into a better looking pick-up.
I will update this section when it is finished.
At this point, you can also add a screw between the flippers to bounce the ball back.
This is optional.
For information about paper plastering and plastering, please refer to Step 5.
Fixed the front panel again this time with glue as we no longer need to remove it.
As we have done before, simply form the shape of the mountains with shredded chicken and nail them on all surfaces.
You may need to reinforce the shredded chicken with a few screws on the left hand side as it doesn\'t have much support.
Just insert a few longer screws on the side wall of the chicken line and tie them up with more wires.
Make sure they are not exposed.
Paper and plaster (Optional)
Now remanufacture 7 45mm screws with flying wire rubber and place them in the last photo above.
As you may have noticed, I jumped the gun on the painting and therefore used more paint than I should have used.
In hind sight, never start painting until you are 110% sure you have finished the building.
It may be my impatient nature at work!
Are you sure you\'re done? ? ?
It\'s not my strength, so I\'m sure you talented teachers will do better than me.
Some advice I can give is that if you use the same color as me, start with your base color, like the dirt tone.
The land is brown, then green, and the sky is blue.
Then find out where and how your red flame will go over the top and finally turn yellow to form a cross/flashing pattern.
I didn\'t give up on achieving what I wanted, but overall I was happy.
I\'m going to add and improve this project, including adding legs, better ball recycling system, etc.
I hope I explain well enough that you enjoyed my first note.
Thanks for watching.